NEW YORK, Jan. 8 -- You can’t ignore the veggies at Lespinasse.
Winter vegetables never looked – or tasted – better than here in a trio of winter soups (celery root, chestnut and cabbage) or combined with seafood (steamed snapper, turnips and Taylor Bay scallops) or a breast of Muscovy duck (crushed parsnips) or confit baby pig with tarbais bean cassoulet.
These are just a few of the items on Chef Christian Delouvrier’s midwinter menu at Lespinasse in the St. Regis Hotel in New York. Lespinasse, which re-opens on Jan. 15, is one of the country’s top-rated French restaurants that holds both Five Star and Five Diamond awards as well as the highest award of four stars by both the New York Times and Forbes magazine.
Borrowing freely from his own home region of Gascogne, Chef Delouvrier’s offerings include ample opportunities for truffles among such appetizers as a sautéed Hudson Valley foie gras with ragout of chestnuts, carrots and truffles, or a seared Maine diver sea scallops with Jerusalem artichoke mousseline, cabbage and black truffles. Soups range from a filet of mullet with confit of “snocclalate” black olives to the trio of winter soups.
While Chef often favors fish (you’ll find a blanquette of John Dory with artichokes, black truffles and rice pilaf and a sautéed skate with lentils and vinaigrette of leeks), this is the time of year he indulges in the rich treatments of heartier meats: a roasted chop and loin of lamb with whole roasted turnip stuffed with braised shoulder of lamb, with white turnip fricassee; braised leg and roasted rack of rabbit with tomatoes, onion compote and sauce moutarde, a braised and spit roused veal shank with braised cabbage and his signature young female chicken poached in its own bouillon and served with truffled basmati rice (a dish that requires a 24-hour-advance reservation).
Lespinasse holds both ExxonMobil Five Star and AAA Five Diamond awards as well as the highest award of four stars by both the New York Times and Forbes magazine. For reservations please call 212/339-6857. Lespinasse is located in the St. Regis Hotel at 2 East 55th Street, New York, New York.
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